Best Wild Camping in Northumberland and the Cheviots

Northumberland is England's most sparsely populated county and it feels like it. Rolling hills, empty moorland, and a coastline with barely a soul on it — this is wild camping country that rivals Scotland for remoteness without crossing the border.

Why Northumberland?

Three things set Northumberland apart:

1. Space. The county has one of the lowest population densities in England. The Cheviots and Border hills see remarkably few visitors.
2. Dark skies. Northumberland National Park and Kielder Water & Forest Park together form an International Dark Sky Park — the largest in Europe. The stargazing is outstanding.
3. The border country. The hills along the Scottish border have a raw, wild character that's genuinely atmospheric. Centuries of conflict shaped this landscape, and it still feels on the edge.

Best Areas

The Cheviot Hills

The Cheviots form the northern boundary of England — a range of smooth, grassy hills that straddle the border with Scotland. The Cheviot itself (815m) is the highest point in Northumberland, though its summit is a boggy plateau rather than a dramatic peak.

The surrounding hills are excellent camping territory — grassy, gently rolling, and almost deserted. The valleys (known locally as "hopes") offer shelter, while the ridges give expansive views into Scotland and towards the coast.

The Pennine Way finishes (or starts) here, and the area around its final sections offers superb camping.

Best for: Genuine solitude in rolling border country.

Hadrian's Wall Country

The central section of Hadrian's Wall runs along the Whin Sill — a dramatic dolerite ridge with crags and loughs (lakes). It's one of England's most atmospheric landscapes.

Wild camping right on the Wall isn't appropriate — it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the archaeology is fragile. But the moorland and hills either side of the Wall offer good options with views down to the Wall and across the surrounding country.

Best for: Combining history with wild camping. An overnight camp with the Wall visible below you is memorable.

The Northumberland Coast

Northumberland's coast is stunning — long sandy beaches, castle-topped headlands, and the Fame Islands offshore. It's a very different wild camping experience from the hills.

Beach camping is possible in quieter sections, though you need to be aware of tides, private land, and local restrictions. The dunes and coastal grasslands offer sheltered spots.

Best for: A change of pace. Coastal wild camping with the sound of waves.

Kielder and the Border Forests

Kielder Forest is the largest man-made forest in England, surrounding Kielder Water reservoir. The surrounding moorland and forest edges offer camping with exceptional dark sky conditions.

The forest itself is less suitable — dense plantation forestry is dark, damp, and not particularly pleasant to camp in. The moorland edges and clearings are better.

Best for: Dark sky enthusiasts and those wanting forest-edge camping.

Simonside Hills

South of the Cheviots, the Simonside Hills are a smaller range of sandstone hills with heather moorland and rocky tors. They're easier to access than the Cheviots and offer good camping on the ridge.

Best for: Accessible overnight camping without a major expedition.

Dark Sky Camping

Northumberland's dark sky status is a major draw for wild campers. On a clear, moonless night, the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye, and the sky is genuinely breathtaking.

The best dark sky locations are away from the A69 corridor and the coast. The Cheviots, Kielder area, and the moorland around Hadrian's Wall all offer exceptional viewing.

Take binoculars or a small telescope if you have them. But honestly, just lying in your sleeping bag looking up is enough.

Conditions

Weather

Northumberland is drier than the western hills but can still be wet, especially on the Cheviots. Wind is a constant feature — the border hills are exposed and the coast gets sea breezes.

Temperatures are moderate in summer but can drop significantly at night, especially on high ground.

Terrain

The Cheviots are grassy and smooth — easier underfoot than most English upland areas. The summit of The Cheviot is boggy, but the surrounding hills are generally well-drained.

The coast offers sand, dunes, and grassland. Hadrian's Wall country has a mix of grass, heather, and rock.

Access

The A697 and A68 provide access from the south. The area is served by the East Coast Main Line (Alnmouth and Berwick-upon-Tweed stations), but getting to the hills from the train requires either a car or limited bus services.

Seasonal Guide

Spring: Lambing season in the border country — respect farming. Longer days and warming temperatures. Good visibility.

Summer: Warmest and driest. The coast can be busy but the hills remain quiet. Short nights limit dark sky viewing.

Autumn: Beautiful light, golden heather, and the best dark sky conditions (long clear nights). Quieter everywhere.

Winter: Cold and dark, but the dark sky opportunities are outstanding. The border hills can carry snow. Wrap up warm.

Recommended Gear for Northumberland

Northumberland's dark skies and exposed border country call for good lighting and warm gear.